Nacre and shell properties

The shell, a hard and robust outer layer, is a characteristic feature of many marine animals, providing essential protection against predators and external threats. Inside, mother-of-pearl unveils its splendor—a surface often smooth and polished, evoking the wonders of the ocean and the delicacy of natural forms. This phenomenon occurs when certain mollusks secrete successive layers of nacre to shield their bodies from foreign elements, such as parasites or grains of sand.

Although some authors address the shell, mother-of-pearl, and pearl separately, these three elements fundamentally originate from the same material. The pearl, a rarer and more complex defensive reaction in certain mollusks, holds its own rarity and unique history, distinguishing its essence and significance from other components of the shell. It is this rarity that grants the pearl exceptional symbolic and monetary value, making it an object of desire and mystique in many cultures throughout history.

 

 

The shell, primarily composed of mother-of-pearl, exhibits remarkable chemical richness. Mother-of-pearl is predominantly made up of two fundamental components: an organic protein-rich matrix, mainly conchiolin, and an inorganic deposit of calcium carbonate in the form of aragonite crystals. These crystals are arranged in very thin layers, creating the characteristic luster and durability of mother-of-pearl. This deposition process not only enhances the surface’s beauty but also provides significant strength and resilience.

In terms of color, mother-of-pearl offers a wide spectrum of hues. Its shades vary depending on the mollusk species and environmental conditions, ranging from brilliant white to cream, and extending to richer colors like pink, blue, green, purple, and even black. These tones are often iridescent, with light reflections that shift depending on the angle of observation—a phenomenon that adds to the magical and captivating allure of mother-of-pearl. The color is influenced by the local chemical composition of the water, the specific characteristics of each mollusk species, as well as factors like salinity, temperature, and water depth.

While fascinating for its iridescent luster and beauty, mother-of-pearl also has specific properties regarding durability. In the jewelry industry, it is prized for its pearlescent shine, though it is not as hard as some gemstones or metals. Its structure, made up of fine, overlapping layers of calcium carbonate and conchiolin, provides a degree of flexibility, yet it remains relatively fragile, especially when subjected to heavy impacts or scratches.

Mother-of-pearl can be easily scratched or damaged when it comes into contact with harder materials. To enhance its resilience, it is often set into metal mounts (such as gold or silver) or coated with resin or varnish in jewelry. These treatments help increase its strength and longevity while preserving its brilliance.

Jewelry made with mother-of-pearl requires particular care. It is advisable to protect it from chemicals (such as perfumes or cosmetics), physical impacts, and abrasions. For cleaning, a soft cloth is recommended, and abrasive cleaners should be avoided to maintain the integrity and unique luster of the material. Although relatively delicate, the pearlescence of mother-of-pearl, a phenomenon resulting from light refracting through its layers, ensures it retains its shine and beauty despite its lower hardness compared to other jewelry materials.

Stories, beliefs and legends about the nacre

Since the dawn of time, seashells have captivated human imagination with their shimmering colors, elegant shapes, and enigmatic connection to both land and sea.

As a result, they have been used to create an endless variety of objects: dazzling jewelry, enchanting decorative pieces, intricate inlays, exquisite buttons, lip dyes, refined tabletterie items, evocative musical instruments, and even as currency in certain ancient cultures. The possibilities offered by seashells are as vast as their unparalleled beauty.

Seashells have served as a medium of exchange, acting as a form of currency in many regions around the world. Their use as money is particularly well-documented in the Indian Ocean, the Pacific, North America, Africa, and the Caribbean.
What is fascinating is that these seashells could be traded over long distances, sometimes thousands of kilometers from their place of origin. Their value was especially high for populations far from coastal areas, where seashells were rare and regarded as precious goods. Thus, beyond their natural beauty, seashells played a pivotal role in the history of trade and intercultural exchanges across centuries.

Since time immemorial, seashells have been used as versatile tools, valued for their varied shapes, durability, and ease of carving and shaping to meet specific needs.
Some shells naturally shaped like bowls were used for eating, while larger ones even served as bathtubs or baptismal fonts. Smaller shells, such as mussel shells, were employed as spoons. Additionally, certain shells with sharp edges were repurposed as knives, saws, or scrapers, showcasing the remarkable adaptability and ingenuity of these simple yet precious marine tools.

Seashells have also played a remarkable role in the world of music, particularly as wind instruments. Large sea snail shells are often pierced at their partitions to produce enchanting sounds. Known as "sea horns" or "conches," they have been used in many cultures for their ritualistic or celebratory resonance. For example, some African tribes used them to announce significant events or as calls during ceremonies.

However, it is in the realm of adornment and jewelry that seashells have perhaps found their most profound artistic expression. Their use dates back to prehistoric times when pierced and strung shells were worn as treasured ornaments. Sometimes, they were meticulously carved and shaped into elaborate designs, reflecting the sophistication and creativity of ancient artisans.

Seashells hold a prominent place in human history, offering a wealth of symbols and meanings across the world’s cultures.

Early Christians depicted seashells as symbols of resurrection, representing eternal life after death. The scallop shell, in particular, is revered by Christians as the emblem of Saint James the Greater, one of the twelve apostles, whose legendary tomb is located in Compostela, Spain.
Mother-of-pearl, with its soft and milky hue, has often been associated with maternal love. In Catholic tradition, it is frequently linked to the Virgin Mary, mother of Jesus. As a result, many rosaries used for prayer are crafted from this material, symbolizing devotion and piety toward the Mother of Jesus. This connection to motherhood and love is also reflected in other spiritual traditions, where mother-of-pearl embodies divine protection and care.

Northeastern Native American tribes, such as the Algonquins, had a deep relationship with seashells, using them to create wampum. These ritual and sacred objects were primarily made from shells and formed into belts, necklaces, or gifts to seal agreements. Wampum also served as currency and were significant symbols of trade and diplomacy among tribes. Furthermore, it was common for these peoples to use tubular-shaped shells to adorn their hair, adding beauty and symbolism to their appearance.

As for the Maya, they used mother-of-pearl to craft dental implants, demonstrating their mastery of craftsmanship and advanced understanding of the materials available in their natural environment. Mother-of-pearl, like seashells in general, was perceived as a pure and sacred material, often employed in ritual practices related to health and well-being.

Shells also hold a significant place in Hinduism, particularly the conch shell. It is one of the eight sacred emblems of Hinduism, known as the Ashtamangala. The white, dextral conch is regarded as the trumpet of legendary heroes in epic tales. Furthermore, in Hinduism, the Panchajanya conch is one of the most important attributes of the god Vishnu, symbolizing the creation of the world from the primordial ocean.

In Buddhist tradition, the conch is similarly revered, representing the voice of the Buddha and the dissemination of his sacred teachings across the world. As a symbol of wisdom and the spread of divine light, it is used in rituals to ward off evil spirits.

The Aboriginal people of Australia ingeniously employed shells like the Melo melo, also known as the "bailer shell," as practical tools. This particular shell was used as a scoop to bail out their canoes, showcasing their skillful adaptation of natural resources to meet practical needs.

In Caribbean Santeria, shells play a central role in divinatory practices. They are used as tools for communication with spirits and ancestors, providing guidance and answers during rituals. This reflects the rich cultural and spiritual traditions of the Caribbean, where shells are seen as messengers between the spiritual and earthly realms.

In modern times, shells are increasingly incorporated into various therapeutic practices, with each species reputed for its unique healing properties. They are used in modalities such as aromatherapy and Reiki, where their natural, soothing energies promote physical and emotional well-being. For instance, conch shells are believed to help balance energies, while others, like the nautilus, are associated with spiritual wisdom and introspection.

Shells are also treasured in divinatory arts, where each species carries specific symbols and messages. Their use in divination dates back to ancient times and continues to intrigue those seeking spiritual guidance and understanding. Their diversity and beauty make them powerful tools for interpreting signs.

Finally, mother-of-pearl holds special symbolic significance, representing the 42nd wedding anniversary. It embodies the beauty, resilience, and durability of love and commitment over the years. Like pearls themselves, which form slowly and delicately over time, mother-of-pearl symbolizes harmony, pure love, and unity—a testament to longevity and growth in relationships.

Mines: shells are present everywhere but more specific specimens can be found in Madagascar, China, Thailand, Mexico, Costa Rica and Australia.

Healing properties and benefits of nacre

Throughout the long history of humanity, different societies have attributed various properties, virtues, and curative or symbolic interpretations to mother-of-pearl. The elements presented here follow a cultural and historical approach, intended to illustrate the symbolic relationship that has gradually developed between mother-of-pearl and human civilizations over the centuries. As with previous examples, these interpretations are part of a descriptive, scientific, and historical perspective. They do not constitute any form of therapeutic or medical recommendation and do not reflect our personal beliefs.

• In many traditions, shells, and mother-of-pearl in particular, are associated with the mineral richness of the sea. Their composition, which notably includes calcium, magnesium, and various trace elements, is mentioned in traditional uses as a symbolic support for the health of bones and tissues. These elements are sometimes linked to processes of cellular regeneration, which explains the place of mother-of-pearl in certain accounts related to bone consolidation or tissue repair. This notion of regeneration is also found in contemporary cosmetic uses of mother-of-pearl, where it is associated with skin restructuring and radiance.
• Closely connected to the natural cycles of the sea, shells carry a strong symbolic charge. In many cultures, they are associated with fertility, renewal, and creation. Mother-of-pearl thus appears in mythological narratives linked to deities of the sea and fertility, becoming a symbol that accompanies life projects, whether related to pregnancy, birth, or new beginnings, both on a material and symbolic level.
• On a physical level, some traditional uses associate shells with digestive balance. Their mineral content is sometimes described as symbolically contributing to the proper functioning of the digestive and renal systems. These interpretations appear notably in certain practices of traditional Chinese medicine or herbalism, where shells are used to accompany purification and detoxification processes of the body.
• In several traditions, shells, and especially mother-of-pearl, are also mentioned for their symbolic links with inflammation and joint pain. They are sometimes associated with the soothing of conditions such as arthritis, rheumatism, or joint discomfort. This perspective is rooted in the importance attributed to marine minerals, whose relevance has been highlighted in some modern works within complementary approaches to inflammatory conditions, without establishing any medical conclusions.
• Traditionally, mother-of-pearl has also been associated with the protection of the fetus and well-being during pregnancy. In many ancient cultures, it is described as promoting serenity, balance, and the harmonization of forces linked to motherhood. It is sometimes mentioned as a symbolic support for fertility and maternal well-being, contributing to the idea of a more peaceful pregnancy and childbirth experience.
• Within contemporary lithotherapy, mother-of-pearl is often described as a calming and balancing material. It is associated with the reduction of anxiety, the easing of emotional tension, and the search for a sense of inner peace. It is also mentioned as a support for meditation and introspection, helping to stabilize emotions and foster a more serene inner state.
• Frequently associated with feminine energy, mother-of-pearl is evoked in many traditions as a symbol of creativity and intuition. It is sometimes perceived as a protective material, particularly for women, encouraging self-confidence, personal expression, and reconnection with deep sensitivity. This symbolic dimension is often linked to notions of inner beauty and self-acceptance.
• Mother-of-pearl is also symbolically connected to the heart, considered the seat of love, compassion, and empathy. It is sometimes described as supporting the strengthening of emotional bonds and the soothing of emotional wounds, accompanying processes of inner healing and emotional reconciliation.
• In certain interpretations, mother-of-pearl is also associated with the development of intuition and a gentle form of spirituality. It is mentioned as a support that encourages openness of consciousness, integration of inner experiences, and the deepening of meditative practices. These uses stem from symbolic traditions that view mother-of-pearl as a link between the material world and more subtle dimensions of existence.
• Mother-of-pearl and shells are often described in popular traditions as protective elements. They are associated with the creation of a symbolic space of safety, harmony, and emotional stability around the person who wears them. This protective function refers to the idea of a shield against influences perceived as disruptive, while fostering an overall sense of energetic balance.
• Finally, due to its close association with water, mother-of-pearl is frequently linked to communication and emotional expression. It is described as encouraging more fluid, sincere, and soothing speech, while also promoting listening and mutual understanding. This symbolism makes it a material often mentioned in connection with individuals who experience difficulties in expressing themselves or who are going through emotional blockages.

 

Nacre jewelry samples